Words and photos by Lachlan Finlayson

Art Deco Buildings and Designs from Bucharest, Romania

Bucharest is a popular destination for those interested in Art Deco design and architecture because of its abundance of buildings and monuments. Many are in the central city area or nearby and are easily accessible by public transport. Some buildings are very well known and easily viewed, others are lesser known and almost hidden away in quiet side streets.

Given the abundance of Art Deco examples available, it is impossible to provide a detailed or comprehensive account in this brief article.  I will instead try and give a feel for what a visitor might see as they walk around Bucharest, from small residential houses to large office buildings and public monuments. Some have been beautifully maintained or restored while others appear to be under appreciated and potentially may not survive their fall into disrepair. Nevertheless, there are numerous local individuals and organisations who appreciate the history of this city and are doing their best to protect, maintain and promote the beauty of these buildings and designs.

North Railway Station

The North Railway Station, locally known as Gara de Nord, is the main station in Bucharest. The station was inaugurated in 1872 and a few years later formed part of the Orient Express route. The massive entrance building, known as The Columns, was added during the 1930s. Repairs and restorations were made following bomb damage during World War II.

The station blends elements of Neoclassical and Art Nouveau architectural styles and seems to also depict Art Deco influences on its multiple facades. Most prominent are the stylised reliefs, possibly representing wings which are found at the front and side entrances to the station and also on the main corners of the buildings. These are absent from early photographs and appear to be part of additions and expansions during the 1930s. The reliefs show a remarkable similarity to some of the stylised American Eagle reliefs from that decade that I encountered recently in Texas.  Other possible Art Deco influences are the delightful geometric designs of glass windows and doorways. Interestingly, the modernisation during the 1930s was assigned to the architect Victor Ştefănescu who had designed a central station some twenty years earlier, but this was never built.

Dacia Cinema

Located close to the Gara de Nord is the Dacia Cinema which opened in 1930. It was originally named after Marconi the inventor of radio transmission signals. When the Communists took over the country after World War II, it was re-named Alexandru Popov Cinema and later still Dacia Cinema. It has been closed for many years and has been largely abandoned.

Old photos of the building show the modern Art Deco facade and features, in particular the dramatic bas-reliefs on the upper levels. Sadly, the longest bas-relief has all but disappeared over the years. The shorter one remains, for the moment, and is quite something to behold.  It is said to represent ‘Death’ riding a stallion followed by a young woman in a chariot holding tight to a pair of very angry beasts. A bird observes the mayhem from above and another ‘Death’ intervenes, armed with a pointy weapon. Clearly a lot is going on here!

The Cinema interior is not easily accessible and appears from recent photographs to be beyond repair.

Ecuador Consulate

Situated in the Dacia area of the city is this delightful building with multiple Art Deco features. These include numerous streamlines decorating the front facade as well as geometric designs incorporated into balcony railings.  Another standout feature is the large grey-coloured circular and polygonal elements of the facade which contrast with the main yellow colour. This building is nicely restored and clearly well maintained. The Dacia area has numerous other examples of Art Deco architecture.

Banca Albina Building

The entranceway to the former Banca Albina building, now owned by the Romanian Waters National Administration, has some interesting Art Deco features. The building was completed in 1935 and most sources state the architect is unknown. The door has a metal grill incorporating attractive geometric patterns. Columns either side of the door have modern typography depicting the names of the Romanian cities where the bank had offices at the time. These branches supported the Bucharest headquarters of the bank, thus the depiction of a stylised beehive, surrounded by bees. A nice touch given that Albina is derived from the Romanian word for bees.

At risk of demolition only a few years ago, the building is currently undergoing renovations to retain the remaining Art Deco features. Semi-nude female statues have already been removed, probably during Communist times. Currently the facade is covered with fabric, hiding several bas-relief medallions representing progress of society in agriculture, industry and commerce. Historic photos depict an elegant and sophisticated building of white stone with multiple decorative features prominent on the façade and at street level. Definitely worth another visit next time I’m in Bucharest. 

UGIR Building

The UGIR building (General Union of Industrialists in Romania) nearby in the central city area was designed by Architect Constantin Moșinschi. There is no doubt about this as his name and occupation is inscribed in stone on the façade! Emil Prayer was responsible for the building’s construction in 1938. The design is considered as representative of Italian ‘Fascist’ architecture.  Although somewhat neglected, it still displays multiple elements of Art Deco design and 1930s Modernism.

Particularly noteworthy are the bas-reliefs by Mac Constantinescu, glorifying aspects of industry, agriculture and in particular physical labour. Apparently, these were acceptable themes for the authorities to allow during the post-war Communist years. Historic photographs show a stunning light-coloured building, with dominant columns, bas-reliefs and intricate geometric window coverings. Very different to the building today which has numerous power lines, cables, advertising and graffiti disturbing the facade.

The UNESF Archway

The National University of Physical Education and Sport (UNEFS), is one of the highest-profile advanced education institutions in Romania. It was founded in 1922 and achieved University status in 1937. Today UNEFS is still one of the major sports institutions in Eastern Europe. Commemorative stamps depicting the Archway were issued earlier this year to celebrate the Centenary. 

The monumental archway displays, in a very distinctive Art Deco style, attractive bas-relief semi-stylised images of men and women on horseback. These images may be related to the original use of the archway as an entrance to the royal stables, military buildings and grounds.

Monument to the Heroes of the Air

Reflecting Romania’s proud history in aviation the Monument to the Heroes of the Air (Monumentul Eroilor Aerului) is located on Aviators’ Boulevard a short distance north of the city centre. It was built between 1930 and 1935.  Lidia Kotzebue designed and created a small-scale model which was selected by the committee responsible for the monument. A lengthy process ensured and eventually a more experienced sculptor, Iosif Fekete, was selected to be responsible for the full-scale monument.

Attached to the top of an obelisk, is a statue depicting a flying man, his wings outstretched. Three aviators, each in a different stage of flight attempt, are depicted around the base of the obelisk. All are displayed in a strong Art Deco style; realistic albeit slightly stylised. Interestingly the bodies of the men are based on the American boxer Joe Louis who visited Bucharest around the time of the design.

Bellu Cemetery

Located a short distance south of the city centre is the magnificent Bellu Cemetery, the largest and most famous cemetery in Bucharest. The individual gravesites and family crypts display a wide variety of styles including Art Deco, even though many post-date this period by some decades. Perhaps the selection of Art Deco design and decoration represents the affection the people of Bucharest have had and continue to have for this style. After seeking permission to photograph, I enjoyed a quiet walk on a lovely sunny morning, appreciating the history and designs. Bas-reliefs, crypt designs, sculptures and inscriptions often exhibited distinctive Art Deco themes. It is stylised, streamlined, geometric and exuding modernity.

Isac and Fanny Popper House

Although slightly earlier than the Art Deco period, a house in a quiet residential street in central Bucharest is worthy of mention in this article. The house is a mix of Beaux Arts and Art Nouveau.  This is because the latter style was somewhat illegal in Romania as it was popular in Transylvania, part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire at that time, where Romanians were suppressed and discriminated against. Those who wanted an Art Nouveau home in Bucharest during the 1910s could only include some subtle decorations reminiscent of the style, while the rest was completely Beaux Arts. An example of this is a house built in 1914 by Alfred Popper, which is primarily in the Beaux Arts style, but has some Art Nouveau reliefs of young women dancing and playing musical instruments at the bases of the two pilasters. A particularly attractive building decoration, they remain in very good condition, largely undisturbed for more than a century by the modern world of wiring, cables, plumbing and graffiti. Quite remarkable.

Summary

In closing, Bucharest has an abundance of Art Deco buildings, designs and influences. The city is a delight to visit and explore.  Around every corner of the central city area there seems to be an example of interesting design or architecture from the inter-war period. Many of the buildings are clearly loved and appreciated. Others less so and are probably destined to fall into disrepair and destruction. Local voices, individuals as well as educational, historical and architectural institutions are pushing back against demolitions and unfavourable renovations. They seem to be having some success.

The internet has a great amount of information on Art Deco design and buildings in Bucharest. I also found Instagram to be a particularly useful source of information from local people posting photographs, descriptions and promoting the beauty of these buildings and designs. Some Instagram sites I have enjoyed are: monica_maracineanu and artdecobucharest. I’m sure there are many more. A special thanks to the Instagram site of art.buildings.nature for inspiration and advice during my recent visit to Bucharest.